Sorrento Revisted
Sometimes first impressions aren't everything. As such, I recently gave Sorrento another try. She showed her charming pretty side this time.
Late last winter just before the spring weather turns the coastal towns into warm, dreamy escapes, we ventured down to Sorrento. It was a cold, slightly wet Monday, and we had a new co-worker of my husband in tow. (My husband was his "sponsor" as we call fellow military folks who help you transition to a new place.) The kids were in school, so we were limited by the restraints of drop-off and pick-up times. Sorrento is only an hour and a half away, so no worries.
Except that our GPS (friend? enemy?) took us on a ridiculous route that drove the back-seat driver (ME!) crazy, and tacked on a few extra minutes to our trip - and a few stressful moments in my marriage. We arrived, finally, at the tourist city positioned like the lower lip on the chin of the Sorrentine peninsula.
Maybe the journey there jinxed any chance of a really good time. Maybe it was just not in the cards on a cold Monday. The town just felt sleepy, un-inviting, and not open to visitors. Sure, there were gorgeous views: the knee-knocking-high Amalfi cliffs, the turquoise waters stretching out to the famous Isle of Capri, and an impressive panoramic view of Naples across the Bay. Plenty of Italian restaurants too, all offering translated menus in English and tourist (trap!) "set menu" prices. Regardless, I just left feeling so-so about the town, and wondering what all the hype was about.
Things changed after revisiting Sorrento a few weeks ago, even with the kids in tow.
It was Saturday, and slightly rainy, but the city still glowed with life. Shoppers strolled the endless streets of open-fronted stores spilling out with interesting gifts. Many items caught my eye as I added them to my growing mental Christmas list. The friendly old man in the antique-picture store smiled at the children, and practiced saying their names. The perfect English-speaking Russian waitress at L'Osteria del Buonconvento was all smiles, served us well, and even hung the children's drawings up on the kids' wall at the entrance. The food was quite exceptional, my gnocchi alla Sorrentina the best I've had to date. (The gnocchi was homemade, obvious by the multi-form, handmade shapes.) At times, even the sun broke through the gray clouds splashing late-fall pinks and oranges across the sky. "Festive" was the city's vibe.
Parking is easy, just north of the main square (Piazza Tasso) is a pay-garage (on your right, as you are headed down to the square) that is relatively inexpensive and has a pay-bathroom that cleans itself completely in-between users. The kids get a kick out of this. Exiting the garage and headed south towards the Piazza, we were once again impressed by the fresh fruit and vegetable store on the right offering GIANT lemons, the fruit Sorrento is most associated with. You must try limoncello here, sold in just about every store in every bottle shape and many flavors other than just lemon. (Melon, orange, walnut, strawberry.)
The children immediately caught eye of the sight-seeing train sitting in the main square, began immediately begging us for rides. (We didn't, but will next time). When I mean train, I mean the Disney-ride kind of train that cruises the streets. Surprisingly, this one looked classy, painted a crisp winter white. Nothing like the jazzy-colored Conch Train of Key West. Eventually we worked our way pass the statue of St. Francis and made our way to the cliff-side square to steal grand views of the coast.
Afterwards, we had lunch and then meandered the pedestrian-only streets just off Piazza Tasso, stopping for gelato for the children. (Ah...well... us too!)
All-in-all, it was a thoroughly delightful day. And place. I am sold on Sorrento now, with plans to get down there again soon.
I hear the city decks itself out during the holiday, complete with a giant Christmas tree in the main square. I think it would be a great place to catch and spread a bit of holiday spirit. See you in Sorrento soon!
Sunday, October 25, 2009 at 04:45PM
Reader Comments (2)
Ciao! I understand how you felt about Sorrento on your first visit, and I am happy you went back and had a better experience. I like Sorrento, especially the shops (just got a lovely pair of leather shoes for €20!), but it has a charm all its own. In the winter in the middle of the day it can be pretty desolate. The evenings are the best in winter when everyone comes out and strolls along around Piazza Tasso. I'm looking forward to seeing it this Christmas, too!
Hi Laura! Thanks for your comments. I agree -- desolate during the day. If I get down there one day in Dec. I'll let you know! Would love to finally meet you.